The Ocean at Last

From Fairbanks all the way to down to Vancouver Island there is no easy way to access the exposed ocean beaches and reefs, there’s definitely some outer islands such as Haida Gwai and Sitka that would’ve been amazing to explore, but even then boat access would've be a must.   The ocean had been on my mind a lot since leaving Fairbanks, and so arriving into Vancouver Island was a culmination of exhaustion, relief and pure bliss.   It’s a beautiful rugged coastline, interspersed with long sandy beachies, and a few great little communities. DSC00890   The waves were pretty small for the most part, but I borrowed a longboard on a couple occasions, and that sweetened the little long-period lines.   The sea fog was classic, it’d just roll in out of nowhere and engulf everything.  Most mornings it sat there until midday, only to be burnt off by the warm sun and blue skies in the arvo.   IMG_3286 DSC00922   One thing I really liked was how friendly the surf scene was there, and it seems at least half of Canadian sliders are surfer babes – could it be the girls that keep things more chilled out in the water?  Either way, I got to meet so many amazing people – guys and girls, some of the most chilled locals I’ve surfed with.   NB. I’m in Oregon now and have just had a surf at one particular break with possibly the stinkiest locals I’ve ever encountered, borderline hilarious when they were trying to send me in (before I’d even paddled out) - that’s not happening mate.  But also a little disconcerting when it sounds like they routinely and systematically knife tyres and vandalise vehicles with plates from outside of Oregon.  Especially since my bike kinda stands out.  Real open minded stuff.. pfffft.. ha.  There were a couple of cool guys though, and I must admit, it is a class wave...   Aaaanyway, back to Vancouver Island…   DSC00872   It wasn’t all longboarding.  We had a couple of really fun and punchy 3ft beachy sessions.  It was a good warm up after not having surfed since a weird and sometimes gnarly tidal bore near Anchorage.   DSC00847   Was refreshing to surf everyday…   DSC00947   I camped on riverbeds, forests and clear-cuts initially, but upon arriving into the little town of Ucluelet decided I needed a break and set up in a campground.  It also meant I got to meet some more awesome people.  Was a great little campsite, had some amazing dinners with Markus the timber boat specialist and Sarah the professional ballerina turned novelist, Jen an amazing chef, Giovanni the Italian romantic, and Dennis the ever enthusiastic travelling muso.  Great to stop moving and just hang out – and to start eating healthily again.   C0123.MP4.Still001   I ran into a couple of groovy surfer girls at one point, Kayla and Heather and who managed to turn up right in time for the swell - had a blast hanging out with those two.   DSC00896   After a few weeks it was time to leave, time to get back into the lower 48, to keep moving and keep shaking.  The road was beckoning…   IMG_3045

Leave a Reply